“Veni, Vidi, Vici” (I came, I saw, I conquered.)
That is how many empires were built across the globe. What began just as trade, gradually shifted gears and as they say, the English were high on power! However, it is also said that every empire passes on a philosophy to the world, quoting that its mission is not to loot or control, but to educate and liberate.
Well, the twitchiness of this statement, is not for us to discuss. For we are not tracing how imperialism spread its roots, but we simply have a case of how an unknown village rose in stature to become the Summer Capital of the British Raj.
(To read the journey until now, click here)
The English were beginning to enjoy their sojourn in the hills. To stay in the beautiful bungalows that were beginning to come up, they had to pay a rent for a season, which was usually nine months long. If they wished to stay longer, they were charged extra. The rent varied from 150 rupees to 1500 rupees for an entire season!
It is said that in January 1837, when they enjoyed snow after a long time, they found all the more reason to move to this new-found heaven. More and more palatial houses began to come up. Locally found stones shaped into squares and rectangles were made from rocks and adjusted together to make sturdy walls. Cement was barely used, except on the outside. The Mahasu forest provided the much-needed timber for the poles around the corners. The roofs were angular, for obvious reasons. Every house had a fire-place and a chimney, and there was none without a garden with the most beautiful wild flowers. The hills would run out of flowers that soon began adorning the dining halls and ante rooms.
These houses had very fancy names too, such as, Swiss Cottage, Fountain Hall, The Hermitage, Victoria Lodge, Sunnybank, Abbeyville and many more. The English were even fond of making houses on hill tops (you can make that out from those on Ellysium Hill and Summer Hill that still form a part of the town today). They wished for the sun to keep the house warm in winters. This was unlike the local population that lived in the valleys.
However, this wasn’t the best decision. The English weren’t used to the less amount of oxygen on heights and the locals were clever in this aspect. Hence, there were some common health issues that often crept up. Of these, wheezing was one and indigestion another. In fact, indigestion was so common among the British in Simla that doctors almost always recommended eating at least five meals in small portions! I know of so many people in the hill town who still suffer from this. It was even quoted by a resident in one of his journals that Simla was great for your health when you were healthy, but the moment you fell sick, it was good for you to return home! There were enough reasons for legs to get tired and for lungs to suffer for want of oxygen, almost always!
Sometimes, the English brought along with them servants from the plains. The reason being that Simla was known for its bad servants! It was even quoted that the servants here “fleeced you to their heart’s content”.
Hence, with the popularity of Simla at its peak, and the beginning of its romance with the British, the Governors-General and Viceroys made it their summer residence. The Ridge and the Mall Road came up as the main markets where a lot of action always happened. This hasn’t changed much even today!
There was mass migration to Simla. It was way ahead of other hill stations, namely Mussorie or Nainital. But, as already mentioned, it did not have an easy terrain. In the first place, it was difficult to reach the town all the way from Kalka. The infrastructure was bad. Roads were narrow and bumpy. In Simla itself, it was difficult to move from one place to another. There was a lot of walking to be done, which leaves tourists in jeopardy even today.
So, the British began to hire coolies, who carried heavy loads on their backs as they climbed up hill. If enough labour was not available locally, the English forcibly brought porters from distant places. Sometimes, people were also carried by these porters in Jampan (sedan chairs) and doolies. And not just around the town!
Yes, the journey from Kalka to Simla was arduous. Usually the English had two choices. The government van or the “dawk gari”. The roads were rough and the springs of these gaaris were wrapped in ropes to reduce the roughness of the jolts. But on many a night the gaaris broke down due to the rains which made the Ghagar river, a few miles from Kalka, overflow. Sometimes, the passengers waited for days before they could embark on the journey again.
The British, who liked to spend their summers in Simla, were criticized for spending an entire season, cut-off in the hills.
It is said that good roads are the first step towards good development. The English were aware of this. Hence, a new cart road, called the “Grand Hindostan and Tibet Road” was designed by Major Kennedy and came up in the Vice Royalty of Lord Dalhousie in 1856. And this carved the way for Simla turning into the Summer Capital, officially, in 1864.
Wonder how people now travelled from Kalka to Simla? Several times, the journey was undertaken in Jampans by women, doolies by children and on ponies by the men. All at the expense of the poor porters or coolies who were also used along with mules to carry the luggage. Then came in the ekka or the country cart, a one-horse carriage. The bullock cart was also used for the journey and finally the Tonga was brought, all the way from the Central Province.
(The tonga as a mode of transport; An English lady being carried in a jampan. Image source@internet)
But these modes of transport were slow and tiresome. And with so much happening in Simla, it was important to connect it to the rest of the country with a faster and better means of transport. This laid the foundation of the S(h)imla-Kalka Railway, which is yet another story of marvel. We shall unfold the same in the next chapter.
Until then, relish this amazing fact:
The hand-pulled rickshaw. Image source @internet
The Mall Road was also known as “Thandi Sadak” or Breezy Lane. It was meant for pedestrians and horses (horse riding is still popular on the Ridge). The credit for widening the road in 1878 goes to Lord Lytton. It was then that the first wheeled vehicle, “rickshaw”, was introduced. It was pulled by four labourers (Indians) who wore a uniform and turbans, but ran barefoot.
–Sonia Dogra
Read the next chapter here.
This is a series on Shimla, the Queen of Hills and its not-so-historical tale. Source: @various sources internet
Edward J Buckner’s “Simla: Past and Present”
Read chapter 1 here
Read chapter 2 here
Read chapter 3 here
I am taking my blog to the next level with #MyFriendAlexa
Beautiful. I am from Shimla and run Shimla Walks. https://shimlawalks.com/
Thank you Sumit Raj ji. I do know about Shimla Walks. Glad to connect here.
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This is a well written and well researched article. That era had a lot to suffer and the images are evidence for it.
Thank you for being here!!💐💐
There is so much of history in that area and the pictures describe it so beautifully very well written post
Thank you!!💐💐
That’s a lot of history related to the city and the images are helpful in understanding the reality of those days.
Lovely post!!
Thank you!
So much have happened in that era, and we are only listening or reading to the stories. But while watching the old pictures we love the old time more and more.
Yes of course. Thanks for being here!
Thank you Sonia for this great effort. It’s so overwhelming to read the profound history of the place we belong to. It’s a mixed feeling though to read the development of place and agony of localities. But history teaches us important lessons.
Yes it does. And therein lies its importance.
This is such a classical post I would say, it feels great to read about the development that happened in that era, at the same this period carried the agony felt by Indians which is hard to forget
Yes true. Thanks for being here!
I wonder the amount of time you spend to craft each and every post. They are full of information and well researched. Keep it up.
Thank you. I’m so happy you enjoyed reading. Yes the research work is immense but I am very keen to work on this. It had been on my mind for long. Thank you!
I enjoyed this installment as well!
I’m glad Liz!!
I’m looking forward to the next one!
I am not fond of History, but your post kept me glued to this untold story.
Thank you Supriya. Im so glad.
Never knew all these things about British Raj of Shimla. History is unfolded to us today.
This seems like a great series of posts. It was really interesting. Loved really about the history of one of the most beautiful places in India. ♥️
Im so glas you enjoyed it!💐💐
That’s an intriguing read, Loved the post and your unique writing style. thanks for sharing the facts, especially about the migration. T
Thank you for being here. Glad you enjoyed reading!💐💐
Loved reading the facts on British Raj Shimla. They were allnew to me!
Thanks for visiting!
it was a nice reading post so well written
Thank you!
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This is a wonderfully descriptive piece about Simla during the British raj. I have never visited Simla though one of my cousins grew up there. Will definitely visit sometime.
Thank you for visiting!💐💐
What an interesting story about Shimla.I adore Shimla but didnt know about this quirky history.
Looking forward to the next part
Thank you so much. So glad you enjoyed!
Interesting well-researched post. Actually felt like I am reading a book by they way you described.
Thank you!💐💐
Very well researched post. Very informative. Loved reading it. The whole series seems to be an interesting read, will love to read it soon!!
Thank you Arushi. I’m so glad you enjoyed it!!💐💐
Your post was so nostalgic. Having studied and grown up in Nainital, I could easily relate to the facts and the developments of Shimla. The architecture and the old buildings, coolies, and thandi sadak and mall road and rickshaws are so similar. #MyFriendAlexa #ShubhraReads
Yes Shubhra all hill stations have a similar history…Architecture too. Thanks for visiting!
I have visited Shimla once and it is fascinating to read the history and it’s not so historic tale. Wonderfully narrated, Sonia.
Thank you for visiting!💐💐
Another beautiful read Sonia… Enjoyed the story…Looking forward to the post on shimla kalka railway…. The rail journey as it stands today is a beautiful experience… it would be lovely to know how it was built….
Thank you Kushal for being here!💐💐
This is what I call an interesting post. As a traveller I have visited Shimla & Kalka many times but didnt know the fact behind Kalka-shimla train and mall road.
Thank you for being here!!💐💐
Simla is very cLose to my heart. I can totally imagine and relive the history with your amazing narration if the old times . #damurureads #myfriendalexa damurucreations.com
Thank you for being here Urvashi!!💐💐
😁
Very well researched post. Very informative. The whole series is an interesting read.
So glad you enjoyed. Thank you!!💐
Knowing the history of a place is always interesting and the post is very detailed. An interesting series that to follow.
Thank you Disha!
Wow, very informative post. I would love to go to Shimla .On my travel list .Thanks.
Great. You must! Thank you for being here!!💐💐
History’s sheer delights are here.
Thank you!
Shimla always top my list for vacation, never knew they have history behind them. #millennialscribbler #myfriendalexa
I have never been to Shimla.Thanks for sharing all the gems of information. I think I should plan to visit sometime. #wordsmithkaurreads #MyFriendAlexa #BlogChatter
Yes you must! Though it no longer has that old world charm but you will like it!
I knew that Shimla ha sits own history with Britishers but reading your series is quite interesting. Start of Shimla-Kalka mail is good to read.
Thank you for being here!
Had stayed in Shimla for a course..so really enjoyed reading this post! And, the pictures are so awesome, adding so much to the story.
Thank you!!💐💐
I’ve bookmarked this post to read them post the #MyFriendAlexa campaign! Boy, I have so mush reading to catch up on. #myepicareads @Blogchatter
Interesting read , you have nicely covered all 🙂
Thank you!!💐
It was a nostalgic read for me. Have spent two years in Shimla a decade back. It brought back those memories alive. A very delightful and well researched post. Loving the series.Thanks for sharing.
Wow! That’s great. Thank you for being here!💐💐
wow.. quite some research has gone into it and u have done a fabulous job of putting everything at a place. The charm of Shimla and its history has been well captured. 🙂
Thank you so much. Yes indeed, the research work has been humongous! Thanks for being here.
Simla in Summers!
I am loving this series of yours. So much insight and history in them.
I am loving this Shimla series of yours.So much insight and history in these tales.
Thanks Moushmi. Seems like all the research has been worth it!
Absolutely!! I am hoenstly, loving every bit of it!
The series is indeed a treat to read, Sonia. Looking forward to the next post.
Thank you so much!
This was a riveting read! I never knew so many fascinating details about the evolution of Shimla. The anecdotes about the health ailments and bad servants in Shimla was interesting. A truly interesting series, I can see the makings of a book!
Thank you! I hope I can turn it into one!!
A beautiful and a must read post. You have captured old Shimla so well. I think British knew how to manage hill stations. Even when the erected big buildings they kept enough greenery around those buildings. Of course, there were so few of them. Post independence we have made our hill stations concrete jungles. Be it Shimla, Musoorie, Almora or Nainital. We have built beautiful highways, chopped trees but could not solve waste disposal problem. Instead of slow moving palanquins or horse driven carts, we zoom past the distance between Kalka and Shimla in fast moving cars.
I totally agree with you. How I miss that old world charm. Past 2000 things changed and nothing really was the same ever again. We have just mismanaged development…That’s what I feel.
Thank you for stopping by. And for sharing such wonderful thoughts.
Well researched post!! I also read your previous posts related to this series.
Hi Trapti. Thank you. I know I have seen you around. Thanks for visitiNg again. Of course we need to share your Shimla connection sometime!
Wow! Your post is the gem I found in Blogchatter campaign. British changed Simla for the better and we should be aware. Shall read all related posts:)
#MyFriendAlexa
#AditiReads
aditikapur.com
Aditi thank you so much for such kind words. 💐💐
Wow ! this is a wonderful post. Shimla is one of my favourite hill stations.. Will read your previous posts too! 🙂 #simritreads #MyFriendALexa
Thank you Simrit!💐💐
This is somthing
Omg i am missing shimla
Loved al the facts
And enjoying the series
Thank you Anurag! 💐💐
Having personal history with Shimla, enjoyed reading this
Loved to read the facts and the most important thing I enjoyed reading it because of your beautiful style of writing. I love Shimla. My soul feels a connection with Shimla. There is a story behind it. Thanks for this post.
Oh…I’d love to know your story someday!
Oh the many lives of Simla! Let it be rid of all the snarling traffic!
Yes of course. Wish so too!
What a delightful, well-researched and informative post. It felt like going back in time and understanding the fabric on which the city thrived. Loving your Shimla series namesake. A
Love that “namesake” bit. Thanks for reading dear. I have a story behind being named Sonia. Will share someday!
Wow! Didn’t know so many facts about the beautiful Shimla. You were this blog post so beautifully.
Thank you!💐💐
Oh! This is pretty fascinated. So many li’l known facts though I knew about the thandi sadak!
Thank you!
That’s so wonderfully written and you have chosen a unique theme. I need to read the series now!
Thank you Rashi. So glad you enjoyed the post!💐💐
This is such a well researched post
bringing the past of Shimla so clearly that it really intrigues the reader
I’m so glad Swati that you are enjoying it!
I loved the history you painted and what beautiful photos! Truly a well-researched article!
Thank you so much!
This provided an interesting read. I enjoyed the details you have covered! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you Prerna
I m not a regular reader but I found this very interesting along with historical background of Shimla.. It’s nice. link was send by my wife nidhi.. Will read all series… Thanx for such writings n stay blessed..
Thank you do much Dr Kamal.
Loved to read the facts, specially about the migration. This series is seeming more and more interesting to me! Well written, Sonia!
Thank you for visiting Swarnali
Loved to read the facts, specially about the migration. This series is seeming more and more interesting to me!